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December '02-January '03 I started out in Agadir, then visited Marrakech and Fez. All were mad adventure, but Fez definitely stands out for me. The blurriest line between hustling and hospitality, I found. A guy I met on the train from Marrakech took me to his friend's home and introduced me... the family ended up hosting me at their small farm on a hillside with awesome views of the old town. The husband/father was an incredible man of remarkable hospitality who would take me into town, deep within the labyrinth medina... there was a sense of love, reverance, dignity and pride I felt in Fez that really took me. I could feel the rich cultural and religious history in the air, the buildings, the art, the people.
I'd love to return to Fez. Chefchaoen was were I was headed originally, and from what I hear I'll definitely have to visit next time. Many Moroccans told me the Sahara was their favorite place to visit. Then there are the music festivals... would love to stay for an entire summer and catch 'em all.
Where have you been in Maroc? Do you have a favorite town or region there? Why? What parts do you wish to visit in the future?
I'd love to return to Fez. Chefchaoen was were I was headed originally, and from what I hear I'll definitely have to visit next time. Many Moroccans told me the Sahara was their favorite place to visit. Then there are the music festivals... would love to stay for an entire summer and catch 'em all.
Where have you been in Maroc? Do you have a favorite town or region there? Why? What parts do you wish to visit in the future?
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Re: Your Moroccan Experience
Mon, February 2, 2004 - 5:55 PMGlad you liked Fez - so many travelers have such horror stories of that place. I lived there in the medina qedima for 2 years...got sick of my life and so bought a one-way ticket to Tangier, and after several weeks of wandering found my way to Fez and landed a job and a home, and just found myself staying. I should have stayed longer, but felt a transformation starting to occur that I wasn't sure I wanted to commit to - too many other lives to lead still. -
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Re: Your Moroccan Experience
Tue, February 3, 2004 - 4:24 PMBay, thanks for posting the pictures, they are amazing!
You wound up staying 2 years in Fez! Funny how much easier it is getting into Morocco than it is leaving.
Horror stories about Fez... could you elaborate on this? My experience was such the opposite. Most Moroccan horror stories I have heard involved some combination of insanitary conditions, aggressive hustlers, and paying too much for crafts/antiques in Marrakech. Though I experienced all of the above during my own stay in Marrakech, the energy, spectacle, and dark magic of the place more than compensated. -
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Re: Your Moroccan Experience
Wed, February 4, 2004 - 9:59 PMI would have enjoyed spending longer in Fez but we moved on after a bad experience between a gay member of our party and a hustler who made friends with us, suggested a fun trip to hot springs out of town, then used it as an opportunity to keep asking for money while allowing himself to be blown and not reciprocating, then after our friend didn't want to hire him the next day, had his kiddie cohorts shadow us through the medina, before showing up and delivering a tirade as the crowds passed by, about how my friend was a pervert etc. and he himself was a good Muslim!
Another couple in our party were aid workers with decades of experience in Africa who would shoo away anyone who approached us. The day before they arrived, we went for a walk, got lost in a residential area, and were approached by a little guy who said he was a licensed guide and pulled out cards showing he had been used by US diplomats etc. I was a little suspicious but we let him try to find us a better place to stay, eventually winding up at a palace in the middle of renovation. We thought we had found the jackpot, but when we got the other couple and the husband's mom over, the mom vetoed it and the wife brusquely didn't want anything to do with the guide. After more embarassment we wound up at a regular hotel, and the guide blew up and told us we Americans were imperialists who thought we could buy anything.
Compared to that, Marrakech had no major embarassments, just the regular aggressive sales and outrageous first prices.
I would also recommend the Sahara and mountains. We wound up chartering a van to be driven from Fez through the Atlas to the Sahara for Bedouin tenting / camel riding on the dunes, then through Ouarzazate (a second rate Vegas for the French, skip it) and back over the mountains to Marrakech. The oasis valleys at the edge of the desert seemed magical and I would have liked to have spent more time there. -
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Re: Your Moroccan Experience
Wed, February 4, 2004 - 11:29 PMPerhaps I am naive, but how common is it for the Moroccan "guides" to offer sex? They'd do anything else for a dirham, it seemed. Your first story sounds like the basis for a chapter from Naked Lunch.
Oasis valleys at the edge of the desert... is this where the Valley of the Casbahs is? How is Ouarzazate like Vegas?
You make me realize what a glamourized image of Fez I had, based on my tiny corner of experience. There are so many variables involved, one of which is where you happen to get your crash course. Fez was my final stop, and by the time I got there my bullshit tolerance level was at zero so when I was taken in by truly generous and hospitable people the contrast was especially sharp.
But hey, even the bad times were good... or at least they make good memories! Like my very first night in Morocco, I'm sitting at a cafe in Agadir when I am approached by a hustler who I end up meeting the next night for a deal. Homes claims to have "something special, my friend... oil." I am curious, hopeful, and having fun with the novelty of it, so we work something out and after awhile his buddy comes back with a bag. I am mixing it with my spliffs all week and it is good... I am sharing it with people from all over the world at this New Years party and people email later thanking me for the unique and elusive experience. A few days later I am in Marrakech at my first hammam. The attendant hands me a little baggie like the one I already had. "What... in here???" I ask. He looks at me puzzled and gestures scrubbing under his arms. I get back to my room, run the bag under the water, and yep... SUDS :/ Thank goodness for favorable exchange rates!
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Re: Your Moroccan Experience
Thu, February 5, 2004 - 8:06 AMWe arrived in Rabat, and spent a few days there before heading to Fez by train. We were befriended by a group of young Moroccan men while in Fez, and though the story is way too complex and convoluted to post here, our experience was also worthy of a book! Things just got way too fishy throughout the time we were there, and we got pretty freaked out - we ended up sliding the money for our hotel under the office door at 5:00 am before anyone woke up and high-tailed it out of there! I think things would've gotten ugly if we hadn't... We were supposed to move on to Marrakech, but were worried that those guys were going to follow us there (one emailed later and said he *had* gone there looking for us), so we ended up going back to Rabat for a while. I think my friend was a bit overwhelmed by Morocco, and she decided she wanted to go home, so we left a few days earlier than we were initially going to.
That aside, I loved Morocco, and especially Fez - one of the most amazing and beautiful places I've ever been, and I don't think anything will ever compare to it. I wouldn't hesitate to go back.
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Re: Your Moroccan Experience
Fri, February 13, 2004 - 3:30 PMTrading sex for cash is really common - which is why we get hassled so much. In the 60s and 70s, especially, (and before, when Spain still had partial control, ie. Interzone) loads of European tourists came down to Morocco for sex, male and female. The tricky bit is recognizing that Islam in that part of the world has different definitions of homosexuality than we do. It is perfectly acceptable for a "straight" man to get sucked or to fuck someone else's ass while waiting to marry a girl - the only time you're considered gay is if you're a bottom. (How convenient, eh?) Another neat trick is for the girls - although this is far less common: in many areas, hymen tests are still performed before marriage to ensure that the "goods" haven't been tampered with. SO - anal sex before marriage! (The things you learn when you teach high schoolers.)
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Re: Your Moroccan Experience
Thu, February 5, 2004 - 2:10 PMIt's been ages since I was in Morocco--it was the winter of 99/00 when I was there for three weeks, partly (ack) travelling with a group, and partly under our own steam. I've been meaning, wanting to go back ever since, but have been too busy heading off to other places.
Some of my travel journals about the trip start here:
heyoka.com/forgetting/text/morocco1.html
(in brief: I loved Essaouira. Loved the desert. Loved the land around Tafroute. Loved the mountains. Couldn't stand Taroudante. Hated being stuck at the bottom of Todra Gorge.)